Anne’s Ukrainian Borscht with Meat
Anne Milton
February, 2010
In the interest of full disclosure, I'm not Ukranian—not one bit.
My father's Russian Jewish family came over here bringing a recipe for meaty 'winter' borscht—a deep maroon, sweet-and-sour stew thick with prunes, tomatoes and cabbage—it's delicious, and maybe I'll post the recipe someday. When I joined
Boston Organics a couple years ago, I began getting relatively exotic things like celery root and parsnips along with my beets in the wintertime. I originally found Ukranian Borscht described in a book called
Cooking in the Litchfield Hills
—a find-raiser for the Pratt Nature Center in New Milford, CT—so I don't know who provided the recipe. Because the Pratt Center recipe contained many different root veggies, I started fiddling with it, adapting it to my taste and to the contents of my Boston Organics box. Eventually, a new variant was born. The borscht unquestionably shares DNA with the original recipe, but I have to call it mine as well, since the proportions, much of the method, and all the notes are my own. If any actual Ukranians would like to weigh in on this subject, I'd be intrigued to hear from them!
1 1/2 to 2 lbs. beef flank steak or short ribs
, untrimmed (total meat weight excluding bone about 1 lb.)
1 1/2 quarts water
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1 medium carrot, scraped
1 medium celery root, peeled, 1/4 cut out for broth, remaining cut in 1/2-inch cubes
1 whole small onion, peeled, stuck with 2 cloves
4 whole
allspice berries
, roughly crushed
1-2 medium-large, or 3-4 small red or golden beets, without tops (don't use more, or it will overwhelm the soup.)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tablespoon tomato paste
2 large garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 tablespoon butter
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium parsnip, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 medium rutabaga or 2 purple-top turnips, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup chopped cabbage (optional; use more or less to taste)
1 small potato—unpeeled, if you prefer—cut in 1/2-inch cubes (optional: use depending on quantity of other vegetables)
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried dill, or 1-2 teaspoons fresh, minced
1 teaspoon crushed dried parsley, or 2-3 teaspoons fresh, minced
3/4-1 cup sour cream or drained yogurt